Ender 5 (STD/PRO) to Voron 2.4 Conversion

Summary

A few years ago, I converted my Ender 5 to a Voron 2.4. Since posting it to Reddit, I have received several requests for more info (mainly the STLs I modified to accommodate the 4020 vertical extrusions).

But Why?

My reason for the conversion was simple. I wanted:

• CoreXY printer similar to my Tronxy X5SA Pro (which btw, was also eventually converted to a Voron 2.4)
• Increase support for the bed
• Klipper
• Enclosed printer for printing ABS/ASA

Although I didn't have one at the time, I was a big fan of the Voron 2.4. It met all of the above requirements. Without any previous printer-building experience, I tore the Ender 5 apart and began to slowly build it back up as a Voron 2.4.

The Journey

I originally converted it to a "stock" Voron 2.4 and re-used the following:

• Frame
• Power supply
• Creality 4.2.7 board
• Motors
• Bed/heater

I have to admit that once I had it down to just the frame, I started questioning why I was even doing this. Once done, I didn't regret the knowledge I had gained.

I eventually replaced:

• the thin/warped bed with a standard 9mm cast aluminum
• the motors with some higher torque motors (Cuerrently using some OMC/Stepper Online motors)
• the board with a BigTreeTech Octopus

At this point, the printer also consists of:

• XOL toolhead with Vz-Hextrudort, Phaetus Rapido 2 and Mellow Fly-SHT36 Can Bus toolhead PCB
• 48V PSU and 5160 Pro drivers
• Titanium extrusion backers
• Pi Cam
• Kinematic Bed Mounts
• Opaque panels wrapped in brushed metal and clear panels tinted
• KlipperScreen using 4.3" Waveshare DSI screen

I also added the following mods:

• Ramalama Front Idlers
• Pins Mod
• Nevermore carbon filter
• Chamber LEDs

Disclaimer

• Print Area - Depending on the bed size, you will lose some print area on the Y axis along with Z. My current print area with the standard 250mm bed is currently 250 mm x 210 mm x 210mm. Z can be a bit taller without the kinematic mounts.
• If you want to enclose the printer, you will need have your own deck acrylic panel cut. The DXF is included. You can also order a set of Voron 2.4 250mm panels and trim 20mm at each corner to ensure the Z belts can clear the panel.
• There are many other conversions that are much easier and cheaper and may make more sense to you (eg. Zero G Mercury One, Voron Trident, etc)

How?

• The process isn't that complicated, especially with the amount of documentation available by the Voron Team.
• The frame will need to be rotated 90 degrees (on the XY axis) in order for the 4020 extrusions to be turned the other way and provide a wider access from the front.
• You can check out the Voron 2.4 Configurator for the rail and extrusion lengths. The printer size is similar to the 250 (410 x 410 x 440 vs the standard Voron 2.4 250mm size of 410 x 410 x 430). However, the X gantry extrusions and rails will need to be 40mms shorter than the recommended size due to the 4020 extrusions.
• The printer should be built the same way as a Voron 2.4 250mm. All standard printed parts other than the ones in this repo will be used.